Micro-filter your engine oil and save on servicing costs. Cut back on engine wear. A Jackmaster bypass oil filter pays for itself.

This filter can also be used as an excellent fuel filter, due to its capacity to remove all water. Just remove the restrictor to allow free fuel flow.

• This budget-priced metal filter container is made from high pressure die cast aluminum and is brand new! 
• The cannister is expensively coated in a dark grey powder coated finish and the sealing edges are machined.
• A threaded steel sleeve is located in the base to take the lid holding bolt. This sleeve is counter-sunk for easy location of the bolt.
• Oil inlet and outlet fittings are standard 1/4 inch BSP fittings.
• The oil outlet contains a 1.5mm restrictor orifice which allows sufficient oil to pass while maintaining engine oil pressure. 
• High quality field fit 're-usable' hose fittings are available on request to allow fitting any where.
• High quality steel reinforced hose is available on request at a budget price.
• A tightly wound paper element enclosed in a cotton bag with a metal eyelet for easy removal, is supplied FREE of charge.
• The filter unit can be fitted anywhere on a vehicle - hose length is not a problem.
• Fitting instructions are available on the website with photographs of interesting installations to be added as they come to hand. 

• Locate a good position to install the unit in an upright position. Locating a good spot sometimes requires a bit of imagination as modern vehicles use up so much space under the bonnet. There is  more information on this subject further down on this page.
• Fit the holding bracket and install the unit. It is sometimes useful to make up a thin, flat plate of steel to which the bracket may be attached.

Connect the hoses.

• The pressure hose (supply hose) needs to be connected to the fitting at the base of the unit marked "In". This hose should be connected to a point on the engine where oil pressure is available. The most common point is at the oil pressure switch. A tee fitting may be used here which will enable the pressure switch to be re-installed, together with the supply hose to the regenerator unit. Various tee fittings are available to suit different makes of engines. A sandwich adaptor mounted between the full-flow filter and the engine provides an excellent supply fitting.

Oil return.

• The other hose (oil return hose) is connected to the fitting marked "Out" and needs to be fitted so that oil can be returned to the sump. There are a number of ways to do this. (1) A swivel fitting is available from Jackmaster Oil Filters, to install into the oil filler cap by drilling a 10mm hole in the centre of the cap. This allows the cap to be undone without removing the return hose. This method is recommended as it allows flow to be checked with the engine running or the removal of oil, an important feature. (2) A fitting called a hollow nut is available from Jackmaster Oil Filters, which screws into a pre-pierced hole in the sump, just above th oil level. (3) The sump or tappet cover may be drilled in an appropriate position to allow the fitting of a "Nutsert" or "Rivet nut" These fittings are available from bolt or engineering supply houses. A very good supply point can be had by drilling into the body of the full flow filter. The full flow filter rarely needs to be changed if you are using bypass filtration, as the oil remains clean and the full flow filter simple remains as primary protection. A "Nutsert can be used here also. You could have two or three full flow filters done at the same time for future use. Another fitting is available to be silver soldered onto the dipstick which is also a good return point.
• Make sure that your hoses are securely tied and the installation is done to your satisfaction.
• Check that there is an element in the unit and run the engine until the filter body warms up. This indicates that oil is flowing through the the unit. This is where the swivel fitting is useful for checking the oil flow.

Swivel return fitting.

• If the swivel fitting is used (recommended) it is best fitted to oil caps which are either flat or slightly domed on top. Some caps are formed for finger grip on top which can interfere with fitting the swivel, although, in most cases it can still be fitted. A 10mm hole is drilled in the centre of the cap. The swivel stem is then inserted into the cap with the spacing washers on top to distance the hose fitting from the cap. The rubber seal is then placed inside the cap followed by the larger steel washer. Now the Nyloc nut is screwed onto the stem. It is only necessary to tighten the nut enough to make the swivel firm but still retain unrestricted turning motion. The rubber seal does not need to be compressed very much. A more complete instruction for installing the swivel fitting is available on the page headed, "Products - Tee pieces & Swivel " and the page headed, "Cleaned Oil Return".

Re-useable hose fittings.

• If re-useable (field fit) hose fittings are used the following applies. This fitting comprises two pieces - the centre fitting, which inserts into the hose end, and the ferrule, which is fitted over the end of the hose. The best way to cut steel wire reinforced hose is by using an electric abrasive saw with an ultra thin cutting wheel. These wheels are only 1.3mm thick and do a nice smooth cut. They are very cheap to buy at the local hardware store and can be used in an abrasive cutoff saw or an electric drill if you have the attachment. The cutoff saw is the easiest to use and performs a nice square cut. The end of the hose must be prepared by removing any outstanding edges on the cut end which would impede the installation of the ferrule. Do not remove the rubber or textile covering from the wire braid. On some hose it is helpful to grind a shallow bevelled angle on the end of the hose, just through the wire braid and tapered back for about 10mm. If the ferrule screws on to the hose without doing this, then that's OK. Next, oil must be applied on the end of the hose and also inside the ferrule. The ferrule is then screwed onto the hose in an anticlockwise direction - the ferrule thread is left handed. Screw it until the hose end bottoms inside the ferrule and then back it off about 1/2 of a turn, enough to leave a clearance of about 1mm or so at the end of the hose. Now apply some oil inside the hose end and also on the thread of the fitting. This thread is right handed so screw it in a clockwise direction.  Push it into the hose until it contacts the thread in the ferrule, then screw it into the ferrule until it bottoms and locks firmly against the ferrule. This provides a hose fitting that will survive enough pressure to burst the hose without detaching. The quality and pressure rating of this hose obviously exceeds the pressure requirements of the filter. However, it is essential to use steel braided hose to provide the best connection with field-fit fittings. Also, the steel braiding provides a quality installation which will resist the onset of brittleness in the hot environment of the engine compartment. A quality hose and fitting should guard against any chance of oil loss for a long operational period.

Nutserts.

• For information on the installation of nutserts there is a very good article I downloaded from the web, to be found on the page headed "Cleaned Oil Return". There is more information on an installation tool lower down on this page.
• For any other information look at the various pictures and details on this website. The site will be upgraded continually with information and photos of various customer installations from around the world.  

Fittings and standards.

Do you have problems with oil spillage when changing spin-on filter.

Many people experience difficulty with oil spillage when changing the spin-on filter or simply difficulty because of access. Their first thought is to fit a remote filter adaptor to make the filter more accesible. While this is cheap enough to do with standard filters it can be an expensive operation when using the more expensive spin-ons on Toyota and Mitsbishi engines. We do make adaptors for these engines but they are expensive so I encourage my customers to look at using a bypass oil filter and leaving the original filter in place on the engine.

This allows you to have very clean oil thus the original filter does not do any work. It can sit there for a very long time. The side benefits of doing this are far less frequent oil changes, better and smoother engine running, better fuel economy and much longer engine life with far fewer repairs required. The cost of a bypass filter is commonly around the same cost as an expensive remote system. You can even avoid doing oil changes indefinitely by doing partial oil changes. You simply pump out a litre of oil occasionally by using the swivel fitting that we supply in the oil cap. Undo the oil cap while the engine is running and fill a container (around a litre or half a litre) replace with new oil and tip the old oil into your diesel fuel tank. Diesels burn this oil without any problem. It is clean because it has been bypass filtered and will not give your injector system any problems. It will even act as a a good upper cylinder lube. Furthermore, you can do it as often as you wish because you are getting a refund for the oil in using it as fuel. Doing this you can avoid ever having to get under the vehicle again. Many people do this.